by Xerjoff
Mamluk by Xerjoff is a rich, gourmand oriental centered around honey, caramel, and amber, with a subtle animalic undercurrent. The opening is notably bold and sweet, with a raw, syrupy honey note that can feel overwhelming to some — described as resembling cat pee, medicinal sweetness, or a thick, sweetened bitter treat. Over time, it settles into a smoother, velvety composition where the honey mingles with warm floral notes like jasmine and osmanthus, while the oud and benzoin add depth and a faintly musky, earthy presence that grounds the sweetness. The fragrance has enormous sillage and projection initially, fading slowly into a long-lasting, intimate trail on the skin. It is best worn in the colder months, particularly during autumn and winter, and performs especially well at night. While the core notes remain remarkably stable across time — consistent honey, caramel, and floral heart — the dry down reveals a more refined layer of benzoin, vanilla, and a soft, damp woodiness, making it accessible yet challenging for those sensitive to intense sweetness or animalic facets. Some find it overly sweet, while others describe it as a sumptuous, luxurious sensory journey — more a perfumed hymn than a simple fragrance.