by Memo Paris
Shams Oud by Memo Paris is a bold, dry, resinous oriental that balances spicy heat with warm balsamic depth. It opens with a potent burst of black pepper, ginger, and saffron, creating a dry, almost medicinal warmth that is quickly enveloped by earthy vetiver and smoky agarwood. Despite its name, the oud is not dominant—instead, it acts as a grounding note among rich resins like labdanum, styrax, tolu balsam, and tonka bean, forming a deeply textured, warm base that lingers for hours. The fragrance evolves into a narcotic, incense-like drydown, reminiscent of old churches, cedar saunas, or forest fires in winter—warm, smoky, sweet, and complex. It performs best in cold weather, where its sillage remains strong and intimate, projecting with quiet intensity. The composition is cohesive and impeccably blended, avoiding the harshness typical of oud while maintaining a distinctive depth. While some find it too intense or unisex to wear in summer, those who appreciate its layered character describe it as unforgettable, haunting, and classy—perfect for evening wear or the coldest months.