by Frederic Malle
Vetiver Extraordinaire is a sharply defined, high-quality vetiver fragrance that captures the essence of wet vetiver root with remarkable authenticity. It opens with a bright, slightly bitter citrus burst from bergamot and bitter orange, layered over a subtle peppery warmth from pink pepper and cloves, creating a crisp, structured introduction. The core of the fragrance is pure vetiver—dry, earthy, green, and root-like—supported by a delicate balance of cedar, sandalwood, and musk in the base, with a subtle discreet myrrh lending a quietly resinous depth. The scent is linear and restrained throughout, avoiding any dramatic shift or surprise, yet this consistency is seen by many as the fragrance's strength, offering a calm, refined, and intensely focused experience. It performs moderately, lasting all day with most people reporting 6-8 hours of presence and earning praise for its long duration, though projection remains soft and intimate, rarely exceeding moderate sillage. Many find it an elegant, masculine-leaning scent suitable for professional environments and warmer seasons, described as refined, clean, sophisticated, and recallable—like a well-tailored suit or polished office space. It is widely admired for its balance, quality ingredients, and reputation as one of the most authentic vetiver scents available, often compared to Guerlain Vetiver in its dry, pure form, though it leans more woody and less soapy. Despite its acclaim, the perfume is divisive. Some perceive the opening as overly medicinal, sharp, or even faintly animalic—described as 'dirty,' 'sweaty,' or 'like a shaven head with a hint of body odor.' Others find it too subtle, uneventful, or lacking in charisma, calling it 'boring' or 'forgettable' despite the excellent craftsmanship. The high price point is consistently criticized, especially when compared to similar perfumes like Encre Noire or Guerlain Vetiver, which offer comparable quality at a fraction of the cost. A notable number of reviewers note that performance appears weaker than expected, especially in the modern reformulation, with some reporting shorter longevity or reduced sillage. The fragrance takes time to appeal, and its true beauty often reveals itself only after several wears, making it a scent best approached with a sample.