by Serge Lutens
Cracheuse de Flammes is a highly distinctive, vintage-inspired rose fragrance that unfolds with a dynamic interplay of metallic green clarity and opulent floral density. It opens with a bright, effervescent burst of apricot and pear, which quickly transitions into a uniquely crystalline green note—almost aldehydic—giving the impression of fresh rose stems rather than flowers. This phase is bold and compelling, though some find it distant from the rose heart. Over time, the rose matures into a deep, luscious Turkish rose core with subtle jammy sweetness, softened by a soft white musk and airy synthetic notes. The dry down settles into a delicate, powdery, slightly sweet floral-musky base, evoking a vintage aristocratic elegance reminiscent of old Guerlain or Roja Dove. The scent is most evocative at night, with moderate to intimate projected presence and a soft, fading sillage. Though the longevity is moderate at best, the fragrance’s complex layers and ethereal character make it most appealing to fans of avant-garde, romantic, and floral-oriented perfumes. It’s less about sillage or power, and more about internal richness and a sense of faded grandeur. While priced at a premium, its availability in discounted forms makes it more accessible than it initially suggests.