by Elie Saab
Essence No. 1 Rose by Elie Saab, composed by Francis Kurkdjian, is a deeply concentrated yet delicate floral fragrance centered entirely on rose, with notes from Bulgarian, Damask, Grasse, and Turkish rose. It unfolds as a rich, velvety rose with a subtle spiciness, lightly sweetened with a hint of vanilla and balsamic resin. There is a distinct candied quality—reminiscent of Turkish delight or rose syrup—though balanced by green, woody, and powdery nuances that prevent it from becoming cloying. The fragrance evolves linearly, starting with a bright, slightly boozy rose opening, then settling into a soft, clean, powdery base with a delicate warmth. It is not fresh or green, nor is it heavy or gourmand in the syrupy sense—more akin to a luxurious rose petal preserved in amber. Longevity is moderate to moderate long, with sillage low to moderate, making it a personal, intimate scent best worn close to the skin. It performs well in autumn and spring, and is suited for daytime wear, though some find it subtle. Critics note that it lacks projection and may disappoint those seeking a robust, dramatic rose. Others praise its elegance, originality, and depth, especially when layered with oud or amber. It appeals to those who enjoy refined, non-cluttered rose scents with a sensual, quiet intensity.