by Ted Lapidus
This is a powerful, animalic leather fragrance with a dry, smoky character that unfolds like a classic piece of masculine perfumery from the 1970s. The opening bursts with aldehydes and citrus, quickly yielding into a dense, leathery, musky core that features bold castoreum and olibanum. The scent is deeply textured—earthy, smoky, and intense—with a presence that lingers strongly in the air. It evokes a rugged sensuality, reminiscent of old-world tailoring, damp leather, and woodland smoke. Longevity is exceptional, especially in winter or cold weather, and the sillage is bold but not overwhelming. The overall effect is one of uncompromising masculinity, with deep sensory weight and a compelling aromatic depth that feels both timeless and unrestrained. The fragrance is not about sweetness or floral notes. It is austere, hard-edged, and carved from raw, animalic ingredients. Some find it inebriatingly erotic—‘libido-driven’ and ‘porny’—while others appreciate its historical richness and role as a precursor to modern leathers. It’s not subtle, not designed for casual wear, nor is it a warm or inviting scent. It announces itself, demands attention, and evokes imagery of a strong, confident man in a world where fragrances were statements, not accessories. Though some perceive it as outdated, its brilliance lies in its boldness, not its era. It stands as one of the most powerful leather-amber-smoke compositions ever created, with craftsmanship that feels holistic, cohesive, and truly unique in today’s fragrance landscape.