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Une Voix Noire
by Serge Lutens
Une Voix Noire is a deeply atmospheric, dark gardenia perfume that evokes the melancholic elegance of Billie Holiday’s voice. It begins with a bold, boozy, floral syrup reminiscent of Fracas—sweet, fruity, and layered with metallic and smoky accords. Over time, this dissipates into a singular, dusky gardenia note, rich with a creamy, indolic depth and traces of rum, tobacco, and nearly invisible animalic musk. While the gardenia is not a literal, fresh flower, it is a highly stylized interpretation: sensual, sensual, wrapped in smokiness, and threaded with hints of plum and soft vanilla in the drydown. Longevity is moderate, with a quiet, intimate sillage that lingers well into the night. The perfume is not for the faint of heart—it’s complex, subdued, and more than a little provocative. While some find it excessively sweet or malodorous due to its fruity, indolic, or 'chemical' facets, many regard it as a masterwork of texture and mood, offering a rich, almost cinematic experience that favors emotional resonance over classic floral realism.
Pros
- +A highly original, emotionally evocative white floral experience that stands apart from typical gardenia perfumes.
- +Complex, layered development that rewards patience and openness to mood.
- +Sultry, theatrical depth that makes it ideal for night wear and introspective moments.
Cons
- −May be overwhelming or unpleasant due to its boozy, metallic, and indolic facets.
- −Smell can be inconsistent or misinterpreted, with some lacking any clear gardenia note.
- −Sillage is modest and longevity varies, though many report good retention on the skin.