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Baptême du Feu
by Serge Lutens
Baptême du Feu by Serge Lutens is a striking, polarizing fragrance that unfolds like a gothic story in three acts. The opening is electric—a burst of zesty citrus, sharp ginger, and a metallic gunpowder note that feels both ancient and modern. This intensity quickly gives way to a warm, spicy heart dominated by cinnamon, cloves, and sweetened wood, with subtle notes of tangerine and osmanthus lending a faint floral depth. The drydown is woody, powdery, and slightly animalic due to castoreum, evoking old leather, ancient manuscripts, and a lingering smoky aura. It’s not a gourmand in the traditional sense—there’s no cloying sweetness—but rather a sophisticated, smoky gingerbread that feels like burning cedar and incense. The scent is most impactful in cold weather, where its warmth and complexity shine; it’s also substantial enough to linger quietly on skin for several hours, though sillage is moderate and performance can be inconsistent.
Pros
- +Becomes deeply evocative and intimate in cold weather, ideal for evening wear, with a rich, layered story that unfolds over time.
- +Has a unique, unforgettable identity—ideal for those seeking a challenging, artistic fragrance that defies categorization and feels like a personal statement.
- +Delivers a powerful sensory experience with metallic, smoky, and animalic qualities that add depth and intrigue, making it unlike most mainstream perfumes.
Cons
- −Can be overwhelming or unpleasant for some due to its sharp metallic and animalic notes, often described as resembling urine or old cologne.
- −Longevity and sillage vary significantly by skin chemistry, and some reports mention it fading quickly or leaving behind a faint musky, salty drydown that isn't universally appealing.
- −May disappoint those expecting a standard gourmand gingerbread scent—its spiciness and woodiness feel more conceptual and chypre-like than sweet or dessert-like.