by Aftelier
Memento Mori by Aftelier is a deeply polarizing perfume that blends animalic, powdery, and amber-rich accords into a haunting, intimate fragrance centered around the concept of mortality and skin. It opens with a buttery, slightly rancid musk that some perceive as medicinal or decaying—a literal scent of flesh and loss. Others experience it as a delicate floral with a watery rose and buttery accent, leaning toward a gentle, powdery skin scent reminiscent of dried flowers or Johnson’s Baby Oil. The longevity is strong and consistent, holding on for hours with minimal sillage, making it most suitable for evening wear under a quiet or contemplative atmosphere. A frequent dissonance in reviews arises not just from differences in skin chemistry but also from strong, visceral reactions to phenylacetic acid—marked by honey, urine, or sour dairy notes. This complexity makes it more an art piece than a conventional wearable perfume, best appreciated by those drawn to elemental, emotionally charged scents. It is not an easy scent to embrace, but for those receptive, it creates a profound, sensual, and meditative experience.