by Frederic Malle
The Moon by Frederic Malle is a confrontational, intensely opulent oriental fragrance defined by its monumental sillage and raucous performance. It opens with a bold, near-invasive burst of sweet, sour raspberry and lychee, blunted by a smoky resinous backdrop of frankincense and oud. This fruity-forward intensity is layered over a denser, leather-woody base that doesn't recede, instead persisting with animalic, slightly bitter nuances. The aroma is described as resembling a high-quality, gourmand shisha—dense, sweet, intriguingly complex, and loaded with culinary-like textures. Despite its pronounced animalic edge in the opening, it settles into a warm, ambery-oud drydown where the fruit fades, revealing a deeper, more structured harmony of sandalwood, patchouli, and resinous oud. It possesses exceptional longevity, lasting well over 12 hours and leaving an enduring trail on clothing, making it ideal only for special occasions. The perfume is polarizing: it demands attention, creates a dramatic presence, and may provoke physical discomfort for some due to its intensity and sweet fruit volatility. Its performance is consistently praised as near-legendary, with one spray sufficing for prolonged impact. While the notes align with a rich, handcrafted aesthetic, the overwhelming price leads to widespread criticism from users who feel it's not matched by justifiable quality or originality, despite the high-end materials used.