by Bortnikoff
Symphonie de Néroli by Bortnikoff is a highly complex and polarizing citrus-wood fragrance centered around neroli, but far removed from the bright, fresh iterations common in modern perfumery. It opens with a surprising, intensely aromatic bitterness—wet citrus notes like clementine and lime mingle with a damp, musky, almost fungal base, creating an initial impression that many describe as 'dirty' or 'off' despite being considered well-crafted by others. This dissonance of sweetness and decay persists through the early stages; however, the fragrance gradually evolves into a richer, darker portrait where the neroli stabilizes into a honeyed, slightly syrupy floral moment, underscored by ambergris, oud, and woody resins. The middle and dry down reveal a compelling interplay of salt, moss, balsam, and vetiver, with a surprisingly long and aromatic trail that lingers through the day. Wearers often observe a shift in perception—initial dislike turns into appreciation as the perfume reveals its layered character. It is unisex but leans slightly masculine in character, best suited for spring and summer evenings when wearability is enhanced by its natural complexity and moderate leaping sillage. The fragrance is not overtly sexy, but possesses a haunting, 'post-bloom' allure that refuses to fade, leaving a distinct, olfactory fingerprint.