by Serge Lutens
L’Innommable is a rich, dense gourmand oriental with a powerful and polarizing character. It opens with a bold, spicy-hoarse burst of cumin and benzoin, evoking dried stone fruits, maple syrup, and a slightly animalic, medicinal depth reminiscent of old scented cabinets or dried apricots. The scent unfolds as a concentrated, linear blend of sweet amber, caramel-like benzoin, and spiced dried fruits, with a subtle tuberose nuance emerging mid-way, adding a waxy, leathered complexity. Its impression is both intense and haunting—its sweetness is not cloying but rather resinous, with a dry, smoky wrap that lingers long after application. The projection is moderate to strong, and the longevity is outstanding, lasting upwards of eight hours even on warmer days, with most users noting it remains engaging through the finish. While some find it overwhelmingly syrupy or physically confrontational—comparing it to a sweaty cook or intense gruel—others praise its layered, evocative depth and how it curates memory and atmosphere.