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L'Heure Exquise
by Bortnikoff
L'Heure Exquise is a highly complex and abstract floral-oriental gourmand with strong woody and resinous facets, featuring a bold opening dominated by medicinal oud, camphor, clove, and champaca. Over time, it evolves into a rich, creamy blend of cacao, ambergris, styrax, and balsamic amber, with a surprisingly sweet and powdery dry down. The fragrance exhibits an intense, long-lasting sillage with strong projection, especially in the night setting and during autumn and winter. It carries a unique bubblegum-like sweetness, described as resembling tutti frutti or high-quality chewy gum, which many find captivating, though others interpret it as a slightly synthetic or candy-like effect. The composition transforms dramatically: from an initially overwhelming, animalic, and spicy oud-forward burst to a more refined, warm, and slightly chocky ambergris bomb with floral and spicy depth. Its performance is remarkable, lasting for hours with a strong, continuous presence. The perfume is stripped of simplicity, demanding patience to appreciate its layered journey. It's best experienced on those who enjoy intricate, unconventional perfumery and don't shy away from complex, woody-sweet, or gourmand orientals with edgy, resinous, and medicinal qualities.
Pros
- +Exceptional performance with long-lasting projection and impressive longevity.
- +Rich, evolving complexity with a dazzling transformation from top to base notes.
- +Unique and captivating scent profile that resembles high-end bubblegum or sweet gourmand candy, making it highly memorable and wearable in the right context.
Cons
- −Extremely intense and potentially overwhelming, especially in the opening phase, which may deter newcomers.
- −Highly divisive; some find it dusty, musty, or reminiscent of old libraries or printing presses.
- −The sweet, candy-like facet may not appeal to those who prefer clean, fresh, or minimalist fragrances.