Lavender Thorne
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La Proie Pour L'Ombre
by Serge Lutens
La Proie Pour L'Ombre is a richly layered, unisex fragrance defined by its bold fusion of leather, vanilla, and licorice. The opening combines a dense leather base with a sweet, almost caramelized vanilla and a deep, aromatic licorice note that evolves into a warm, smoky, balsamic heart. It recalls classic Serge Lutens compositions—particularly Fumerie Turque, Dior Privé Eau Noir, and Santal Majuscule—with its velvety texture, long-wearing nature, and elegant complexity. The fragrance unfolds slowly, revealing layers of coffee, cacao, and a subtle earthy spice that lend depth rather than sweetness alone. It’s not a floral or fresh scent; instead, it creates a darkly sensual ambiance—like walking through a fogged winter chateau lit by candlelight. Many note its long longevity and moderate sillage, making it most suitable for cold weather and evening wear. While some find it excessively sweet or reminiscent of older Lutens scents, others see it as an essential, modern masterpiece of the house’s signature style.
Pros
- +Exceptional longevity and moderate projection make it ideal for winter and night wear.
- +Complex, evolving structure with distinct phases that keep it interesting over time.
- +Balances sweetness with spice and leather to deliver a velvety, sensual depth without losing character.
Cons
- −Can be overly sweet for some, particularly those sensitive to vanilla or licorice.
- −May feel reminiscent of other Lutens fragrances, lacking a strong sense of new identity for some.
- −The leather and licorice are dominant and might feel