XXX Charcoal

Charcoal by Ermenegildo Zegna is a bold, avant-garde fragrance centered around warm spicy and mineral accords, with prominent notes of black pepper, saffron, and elemi. It opens with a sharp, slightly metallic peppery burst, quickly giving way to a smoldering core of graphite, woody resins, and soft amber. The scent evolves into a surprisingly wearable, sophisticated interplay of smoke, smoldering coal, and a dry, resinous leather, enhanced by a subtle sweet warmth and faintly animalic depth. Though some find the opening red fruitiness distracting or synthetic, the overall progression is coherent, with the graphite and mineral notes providing a distinct, modern metallic freshness that sets it apart. It performs well in colder seasons, particularly autumn and winter, and is best worn during evening hours or in more formal, sharp-dressed settings. The overall impression is one of high technical craftsmanship, aligning it with niche, complex perfumes like Dior Immortelle or Maison Francis Boudreau Black Siddha.